← A Fado de Coimbra concert in the old town guide

Before you go

What a 50-minute concert holds

How the evening runs from the climb to the door to the glass of port, what to bring and how to listen when the singer and guitars begin.

By Coimbra Fado Guide · facts last checked

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Quick answer

A Coimbra fado concert at Fado ao Centro lasts about 50 minutes: you climb Rua Quebra Costas to a small house, hear Fado de Coimbra with moments from the city's history between songs, and finish with a glass of port tasted with the musicians. The host speaks English and Portuguese. There is no meal, so plan dinner before or after.

The short answer

Coimbra's old town rising in warm evening light above the arches of a bridge over the Mondego River
Coimbra's old town above the Mondego, in evening light · Photo: François Philipp, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The evening has three parts: the climb, the concert and the glass. The concert itself runs about 50 minutes. The house stands on Rua Quebra Costas under the Old Cathedral, and its organisers describe a cultural project founded in Coimbra in 2010, with the musicians' belongings hung on the walls. The rest of this page unpacks those facts one by one.

Before you arrive

Choose a date and book through GetYourGuide; the start time is on the calendar and in your confirmation. Eat first, since the ticket includes a glass of port and no meal. Wear shoes with a grip for the street's steps and cobbles, and leave large bags at your hotel. If anyone in your party cannot manage steps, ask GetYourGuide's support before you book.

The climb

The street runs between the Almedina arch and the square by the Old Cathedral, according to the city's inventory, and its upper end is a staircase. Number 7 is the house. Allow time for the steps and for a breath at the top, because a short concert in a small room suits an audience that is settled, not out of breath.

The room

A paved street with a leafy tree, a flight of steps and visitors walking up between pale houses on Rua de Quebra-Costas
A stretch of Rua de Quebra-Costas below the cathedral square · Photo: Threeohsix, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

UNESCO's entry on fado mentions small fado houses as the setting for much of the music. Photographs of Fado ao Centro show a small, dim room with red curtains, a screen above the stage and framed pictures on the walls, with the musicians seated a short distance from the audience. That closeness is the format: a handful of musicians, a few rows of listeners and no stage set beyond the room itself. If you have only heard fado recorded, hearing the Coimbra guitar and the voice live in a room this size is a different thing.

How to listen

Wikipedia calls fado in general a music of resignation, fate and melancholy, loosely summed up by the Portuguese word saudade, or longing, and traces Coimbra fado to the verse of medieval troubadours. The mood carries even when the words do not. Watch the singer, listen for the Coimbra guitar's chords beside the classical guitar, and let the pauses be pauses. At street serenades, a Coimbra hotel's guide says, clapping is not welcome; in a seated concert, follow the host and the room.

The glass at the end

The concert closes with a glass of port tasted with the musicians. It is the moment to ask about the instruments, the capes or the songs you liked. The host speaks English and Portuguese, which makes questions easy in either language. Ask which style is in your glass, if you are curious, and take it slowly: port is typically stronger than table wine.

Making an evening of it

The concert is short, so it leaves the rest of the evening open. The street leads back down to the Almedina arch and the lower town, the Baixa, where the city's merchants and artisans worked in the Middle Ages, Wikipedia says. If you arrive early, the square in front of the Old Cathedral is a few steps from the street's upper end. There is no meal in the ticket, so choose where to eat before or after on your own.

Who this isn't for

A long evening it is not: the concert runs about 50 minutes, and no meal comes with it. Anyone expecting a stage show with lighting and a large cast will find a small house with a handful of musicians plain. And if steps are not for you, ask about the route first.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the concert?

About 50 minutes.

Is food included?

No. The ticket covers the concert and a glass of port.

What language is the host?

English and Portuguese.

What if my plans change?

Cancellation is free until 24 hours before, through GetYourGuide.

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Sources

  1. Wikipedia article on Coimbra fado
  2. Wikipedia article on fado
  3. UNESCO intangible heritage entry for fado
  4. Câmara Municipal de Coimbra, inventory sheet for Rua de Quebra Costas
  5. Hotel Oslo Coimbra, the fado of Coimbra

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